The Ten Bells, au naturale
The Ten Bells feels like the cozy hold of a frigate: stool seating, a U-shaped bar, great lighting. It’s a transatlantic voyage, as the Bells features biodynamic wines of France, the winemakers noted along with each glass listed on the blackboard walls.
Will the voyage be rough? Will the organic wines illuminate? Will Jill leave hungry? Read on, true believers…
Goes great with: a petit appetite, high school French, an eye for romance
My friend Keira and I only hang in seasons of transition: when she’s in-between relationships. She found some mad money in a coat, and we’re off to The Ten Bells, a downtown spot featuring European biodynamics.
Wow – the place is charming: tin ceiling, edison bulbs, Count Basie. “Ah, Parker would have loved this place,” K exhales. Oysters, stat, with a sparkling rosé Annees Folles (yummy) and a red ’06 Corbières (flat). The wines come, but plan to linger – service is organic, too.
Rather timid Papas Bravas (spicy potatoes) arrive, something for K to poke at in her funk. A second white: an ‘07 Gros Plan from the Loire. “This wine reminds me of Montauk, with Parker” says K as I devour a small, burned Tomato Mustard tart and a second mediocre red, an ’06 St. Chinian.
Then, the malaise breaker: our rotund bartender delivers the tiniest Filet Mignon known to man. “Well, that kind of reminds me of Parker, too!” In three bites, he’s gone, and we are tasting an ’06 Cheverny “Les Ardilles” – finally, a delicious, complex red that demands that you live now.
We polish off lamb prosciutto and a terrine of Codfish Provençal with a last white: a Les Cailloux du Paradis “Quartz”, a warped Sauvignon Blanc with cider color and honey notes, perfect for Fall. With small servings and uneven pours but great atmosphere, Ten Bells is not a place to go hungry, but a picturesque stopover to laugh, conspire in the shadows, make eyes at cute guys, and plan your next move.
The Ten Bells
247 Broome Street (btw Ludlow and Orchard)
New York
212-228-4450 *cash only
Vive La France!