Ah yes, the wines that reigned with Leisure Suits, when all basil was dried and the casserole was king. Our parents had it rough. And yet, they loved their wines — they were loyal to their faves, considered a necessity at any gathering. Do those bottles still offer that carefree, happy affiliation?

The news is, they weren’t the cheapest wines — they still aren’t! These days, we’re all looking for a bargain — that doesn’t mean a wine should be forgettable.

Blue Nun was marketed to avoid the intimidation of gothic German labels, and it worked. While less sweet now (more Riesling in the blend), it’s still light and refreshing, with distinct notes of irony: the label practically winks. This isn’t a bottle to tell your troubles to, it’s one to laugh with — our folks got through tough times, and we will, too.

The Woodbridge line from Robert Mondavi has nail polish appeal (and I thankfully don’t mean the nose): pick a color, or grape, you like from the thirteen available, and drink it daily — they’re priced so you can. From the Godfather of Napa, Woodbridge typified the sunny promise of California when everyone liked oak paneling and oaked wines. Cali’s budget may be busted flat now, but these wines are still a good way to amp up a simple meal shared with well-worn friends. So easy, it’s like 1978 all over again.