Syrah, The Grape Otherwise Known As Shiraz
Nothing devious in the two names: there are no outstanding wine warrants, and Syrah is not a con man. Smooth talker, check. Easy to enjoy, check. Spicy, hell yeah. Popular, absolutely. What else?
Syrah can be more complex than the berry-bomb it might conjure. Marcel gives a nod to a wine that suddenly seems to be everywhere.
Goes great with: a challenge via strong textures: lamb, mushrooms, rich fish dishes.
I was recently accosted by a woman drowning in perfume who alerted me that “French grapes are so last season.” What, I asked, was in her glass?
“California Syrah.”
“Mm. Well, Syrah – or Shiraz – comes from the northern Rhône, where it- ”
“This one’s modern.” She turned and walked; her perfume lingered, burning.
As an abstract painter will first study Renaissance composition and technique, knowing the roots of the grape can illuminate why Syrah is a popular character on different continents.
Syrah is a good listener, absorbing the character of the earth where it is planted. It prefers elegance and structure in Old World vines, providing a skeleton for French classics like Hermitage and Châteauneuf du Pape.
In the New World, this ancient grape has become a sun worshiper and bodybuilder, thriving in the American West, South Africa and Australia. It’s a juicy, full-bodied glass, with spice and tannins to spare, blending well with other grapes.
Promise me that this year, you will try a French Syrah alongside an Australian Shiraz. Family reunions are always a bit strange, but after a while, subtle similarities appear; the Frenchman flexes his sinewy muscle, and the Aussie looks great in a borrowed beret.