Terroir in the streets of the East Village
A teensy-weensy wine bar with a manifesto, Terroir in New York ’s East Village has quickly become a no-reservation destination.
Whereas its corner restaurant-cousin Hearth is cozy and warm, Terroir feels like a crowded clubhouse for Socialist(a) sippers, ready to burn their capitalist cash for a Real Wine Experience (and a good soundtrack). Let’s see how Marcel takes to the agenda.
Goes great with: Skinny jeans, the new black, a singular partner-in-crime.
Well, you can congratulate me. I finally made it into Terroir, the haute-punk East Village wine destination, and latest manifesto of Hearth’s Paul Grieco. Arrive early — I like to sit at the bar, and at Terroir, there’s not much choice.
Terroir looks like it was a trendy t-shirt shop ten minutes beforehand. My date and I entered to “So What’cha Want” by The Beastie Boys and cooled off to a wine cocktail – Der Kaiser, a veritable Riesling sno-köne with blackberries and thyme.
Indeed, branding this the “Summer of Riesling,” we decided to partake. (With glasses from $8 to $20.50, choose tasting portions.) A 2006 Finger Lakes Hermann Weimer was sweet, then dry. Austria provided a subtle, dry 2005 Loimer Kamptal.
Just as they seek to keep their wine honest, the food of Terroir comes from a postage-stamp sized kitchen behind le bar. The Calamari with Chickpea was delicious, but gone too soon. Lamb Sausages were overwhelmed by cruel stabs of Sage.
The Beatles announced our espresso; you would have thought the Fab Four were in the back, it was so packed. A mademoiselle behind me was without a seat, and sought conversion, so we were into the night, with “RIESLING” temporary tattoos and stickers. I like Terroir , I like their spirit and inventiveness — but so do many others. Underground no more.
Terroir
413 East 12th Street
no reservations;
http://www.wineisterroir.com